Yesterday I decided to investigate if water was flowing or not.
Before we start, here is a photo of the sump plug sockets, I’ve been meaning to take a photo of them since I got them, but forgot. The one that fits the DMC is at the top.

Sump plug sockets

Sump plug sockets

I hopped in the car and she started right up and ran… for about 10 seconds, then died. After a bit of WTF (considering she had been starting and running fine for a week) I spent some time trying to get her to start again. After a lot of messing around I finally got her to start, but her idle was lumpy, she was misfiring and she wouldn’t rev. Any attempt to rev resulted in stalling.

I’m thinking this is a fuel pressure issue due to the damaged pump but the new parts are on their way, so there isn’t much I could do. Another thing I noticed is the fans seem to run all the time. I breifly checked the otterstat and it is plugged in, so either it has failed or there is a relay issue. I’ll look at this later.

I managed to get the engine idling again so I let her warm up. I noticed the temp gauge still isn’t working despite connecting the sender last weekend. I could feel the engine getting pretty warm so figured the thermostat should open any time, but it didn’t. I waited a little bit longer but with no temp gauge I didn’t want to risk warping the alloy. I turned her off and could hear the tick tick tick sound of everything cooling, so she should have got warm enough to open the thermostat. I checked the hoses on both sides of the radiator but they were cold to the touch.

I decided to open the water bleeder a little, to see if any water came out of the thermostat housing. I connected my rubber tubing to the valve and cracked it open. nothing came out. I undid it some more but still nothing. I decided to take the bleeder out completely to see if perhaps it was just blocked. I gingerly undid it, scared of eitheh high pressure steam blowing it out of mt hand, or getting scalded with hot water, but there was no pressure or water at all.

I started the engine just for a second to see if water came out the hole left by the breather, but it was bone dry. There wasn’t anything I could do until she had cooled so I left it at that for the day. On the plus side, I put some more fuel in and the fuel gauge is working!

To get to the thermostat, you have to take off the throttle spool and W pipe. I’m getting good at taking things off the engine so it only took me about 5 minutes to get them both off. I noticed there has been oil going though the air intake though, as you can see traces of thin, old black oil. This explains the blue smoke. The new oil seems to have resolved the issue though, as there were no traces of the more viscus new oil around.

Oil in the butterflys

Oil in the butterflys

The thermostat housing had a lot of orange gasket sealer around it, so I wonder if there have been issues with the thermostat before. The 2 bolts took a bit of effort to undo, but they cracked loose after some moderate force.  Once I got the housing lid off, I was surprised how clean the top of the thermostat was. There were some evidence of coolent, but there certainly hadn’t been a strong flow.

Thermostat in-situ

Thermostat in-situ

I tried to lift the thermostat out, but it was stuck fast. I ended up using a screwdriver as leverage, being careful not to scratch or bend anything and the thermostat came free with a pleasant ‘schlop’ sound. The thermostat looks brand new!

I decided to test the thermostat using the hot water method. I know you’re not supposed to do this, but I figured I had nothing to lose as it was probably going to need replacing anyway. The thermostat is set to open at 87 degrees. I figured putting it in a saucepan and heating it was a bit more gentle than just dumping it in a pan of boiling water.

I sat and waited… and waited… it did finally open but it was when the water was almost at the boil, my guess would be around 95 degrees rather than the 87. I’ll replace the thermostat and wait for the parts to come from DMC to fix the fuel pressure issue. I’ve included a oil sender in this order so hopefully the oil gauge will work now too. I’ll order a new otterstat and temp sender in my next order.

I’m also going to get the endoscope out and check that aux air pipe again, I’m wondering if the seal has broken causing a vacuum leak which is why she wouldn’t start and why she won’t rev. If this is the case, I’m going to have a think about a better solution for this pipe, perhaps even moving it to the other side of the mix unit, where there is more space.

I really want to swap the K-Jet for a carburetor, but I’ve already spent so much on the parts for the K-jet (pump, lines, filter, accumulator, Injection lines) it seems wasteful. I am keeping my options open and keeping an eye out for a carb version of the manifold just in case.